Martin Lerma
Master Class
Calvin, Donna, Ralph: The Struggle of American Fashion Empires

With America's three hallmark fashion designers largely irrelevant, can their eponymous...

By Martin Lerma November 08, 2019
Master Class
Pierre Cardin: Fashion’s Space Age Master

When asked to conjure up how they imagine the [future of fashion](https://www.heroine.c...

By Martin Lerma July 24, 2019
Master Class
The History of Fendi's Iconic Baguette Bag

The late 90s proved an interesting time for luxury bags. Legacy brands like Hermès and ...

By Martin Lerma July 05, 2019
Master Class
Annotating Camp: Notes on Fashion

In 1964, a 31-year-old Susan Sontag published what became her seminal ‘Notes on “Camp”’...

By Martin Lerma May 22, 2019
Master Class
The Primal Beauty of Rick Owens

As is the case with many greats, there is something about the work of [Rick Owens](http...

By Martin Lerma March 06, 2019
Master Class
The Lariat: How The Balenciaga 'It' Bag Changed Fashion

When it comes to sartorial benchmarks of the early 2000s, there may be few as potent as...

By Martin Lerma January 28, 2019
Master Class
Tom Ford: Sex, Branding and the Cult of Celebrity

Other than Gianni Versace and Azzedine AlaIïa, there have been few designers to emerge ...

By Martin Lerma October 08, 2018
Master Class
How Calvin Klein’s Slip Dresses Came to Define 90s Fashion

*“Cher, get in here.” “What’s up, daddy?” “What the hell is that?” “A dress.” “Says who...

By Martin Lerma October 03, 2018
Mood
If High-Fashion is Streetwear, What is Luxury?

It’s been nearly 60 years since Yves Saint Laurent looked around the streets of Paris a...

By Martin Lerma April 19, 2018
Mood
Gucci’s Flawed Gender Revolution

In a short time, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has become an industry iconoclast. Fashion ...

By Martin Lerma March 28, 2018 3 Comments
Mood
Why Won’t Comme des Garçons Hire Black Models?

There is little about Rei Kawakubo that hasn’t already been said. She is a genius, a br...

By Martin Lerma February 26, 2018 15 Comments
Mood
Model Meritocracy

A Marc Jacobs show is always an event that sets the pace for New York fashion, but his ...

By Martin Lerma January 30, 2018
Master Class
Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin and the Invention of American Sportswear

If haute couture is resolutely French, then sportswear is unwaveringly American. From f...

By Martin Lerma January 09, 2018
Master Class
Masters of the Bias: How Vionnet, Kleibacker and Galliano Transformed One of Dressmaking’s Most Complex Techniques

For her legendary memoir D.V., iconic Vogue editor Diana Vreeland recalled a surprising...

By Martin Lerma December 13, 2017
Master Class
Madame Grès: Fashion’s First Minimalist

There is a short yet distinct supply of creative geniuses whose contributions are so pr...

By Martin Lerma November 08, 2017 1 Comment