On September 29, 2018, the fashion industry woke up to a bloodbath following one of the most highly anticipated shows of the year. Critics raced one another to the wooden post, describing the event as if it were a massacre of sorts. On September 28, 2018, Hedi Slimane debuted his first collection for Celine, following a two-year hiatus upon his departure from Saint Laurent.

But it’s not just at Celine. The industry itself is experiencing great volatility, and many brands are turning to menswear in hopes of anchoring some stability. With the recent announcement that The Row will be introducing menswear—allegedly of the bespoke kind, though realistically of a certain familiar and subdued iteration—there is one name that has been on everyone’s minds: Hedi Slimane. It’s been nearly two decades since Hedi Slimane first presented us with the Slimane Silhouette at Dior Homme, and we are still talking about it. Though the lapels might move a few inches depending on the season, the quakes from its emergence in 2001 can still be felt today. Take a moment on your morning commute to observe the men shuffling in and out of the E train in Manhattan, and this legacy is ontologically fixed; the suits virile like tight armor—slim, nipped and pulled. With the conversation around menswear today, there was arguably no better time for the maverick himself to make his return. Yet, the decision to come to Celine was miscalculated at best.