Over the past twenty-five years, Jun Takahashi’s brand Undercover has risen to the highest peaks of both streetwear and high fashion through a mix of conceptual and subculture-inspired collections that build off the legacies of designers like Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela and Vivienne Westwood, while also presenting their own unique punk-inspired aesthetics. However, for many of his fans, Takahashi is perceived as a streetwear designer first and foremost; despite coverage from high-brow outlets such as The New York Times, whose T Magazine declared Takahashi “the Sorcerer of Fashion” roughly a year ago, streetwear often contextualizes the way in which Undercover is perceived: from recurring collaborations with the likes of Supreme and Nike, to one-offs with brands including Neighborhood and Original Fake, to North American stockists such as Bodega and Saint Alfred that merchandize Undercover t-shirts and outerwear across from the latest drops from Nike and Adidas, to regular media coverage from hype-driven outlets like Hypebeast and Highsnobiety. Yet, no matter how intertwined Takahashi’s story has become with the past three decades of streetwear, his collections often share more in common with the projects of concept-driven artists like film director Wes Anderson than with streetwear brands.

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