At Martin Margiela’s genre-defining first collection, the deconstructionist designer shod his models in bizarre cloven-hoof appearing boots. Drenched in red paint and stomping down the runway, they left a trail of deer-like prints on the white fabric path. The Belgian designer—an honorary part of the group of graduates from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts who became known as the “Antwerp Six” (Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, who all graduated one year after him in 1980)—told WWD at the time that he, “reacts against everything that’s chic and traditional. If you don’t revolt, then you don’t go anywhere”—and these split-toed boots appeared to be the pinnacle of avant-garde sentiment, an expression of contemptuous defiance to notions of respectable fashionable dress.

Follow Laura on instagram here.