As is the case with many greats, there is something about the work of Rick Owens that gives viewers pause. Is it clothing or art? Ugly or intricately beautiful? Does that even matter? There is perhaps no other designer, with the exception of Miuccia Prada, who so revels in challenging our perception of what is and how to define ‘good’. Through the abandonment of fashion’s fuss, Owens has created a universe of his own, one complete with apparel, accessories, tableware and furniture that all bear his signature Brutalist touch. While the surfaces may be coarse, the inherent beauty permeating every object has a delicacy that makes you want to wrap yourself in it––cashmere-lined armor to protect against an inhospitable world. His independence both as a visionary and as a business owner has allowed him to carve out a space that is all but separate from the regular goings on of fashion—and thankfully so.

His recent Fall/Winter 2019 collection was a perfect depiction of this very rejection of fashion norms. Owens sent out a stream of the most glamorous aliens imaginable: some wore biomorphic jackets sans pants while others were draped in Madame Grès-style pleats exaggerated and twisted as if about to swallow the wearer. Every exit was somehow as inviting as it was menacing. Owens even expanded his own naturally somber palette to include plum, crimson and leaf green––all still muted tones yet ones that magically looked light and fresh seen through his lens. He quite simply never stops evolving.

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