A Week in Review: May 11, 2018
A Week in Review is a weekly summary of the best digital stories from around the web. Is there a story worth reading that we missed? Discuss our picks and share your favorite stories from the week in our comments section below.
Elise by Olsen Renounces her Youth in New Documentary via Ssense
The world is obsessed with youth. Fascinated by adolescence, by precociousness, by young people rebelling, excelling, doing almost anything. An age can be an accomplishment in itself. For years, editor and curator Elise By Olsen was framed by such headlines. Intelligent and assertive beyond her years, By Olsen was a pre-teen magazine editor (she started Recens Paper when she was 13) who built a vigorous artistic community of like-minded young people around her publication. For By Olsen, “Recens Paper was a celebration of youth culture generated by youth culture.” But as she approached 18, she began to feel that her involvement in Recens was becoming inauthentic, that she was at risk of exploiting youth culture in the same way so much of the industry does. What can an adult say about youth culture, when they are no longer themselves a youth?
Menswear Designer Grace Wales Bonner Makes Clothes That Cool Women Want to Wear via W Magazine
For her latest outing, Wales Bonner purposely adapted a few pieces to fit women—including an exquisitely cut white pantsuit—but she still wants them to feel like men’s clothes. She often wears her own men’s designs, with Adidas Stan Smiths, her hair tied back neatly in a ponytail or bun. "I guess you’d describe my taste as fairly conservative," she says. "I really like what Phoebe Philo did at Céline, and I love Prada, especially the generic stuff, rather than the runway collection."
Diet Prada Unmasked via BoF
"When we hit a thousand followers we were like, ‘Whoa,’" Liu says. "A thousand is not a lot now. But for us it was more like, ‘Wow, people are watching what we say.’ We had a few key followers." Some of the heat was generated by the mystery around their identities. For the first two years of the account’s existence, Liu and Schuyler remained wholly anonymous, offering interviews via email or Google chats only and steering clear of observant journalists at fashion shows and other industry events.
Pumped up: Luke Leitch asks how the humble gym shoe became a fashion trophy via The Economist
So the class-of-2018 fashion trainer is chunky, ugly and big. Can the trend last, or will the trainer soon flex in a fresh direction? Of course it will. In January Rick Owens unveiled a new, puritan design of rubber shoe, unadorned save for a few nylon tufts. “I wanted them to be really generic. Almost Kmart,” he said, “I’m a little tired of bombastic sneakers.” Perhaps 2019 will be the year of the $1,000 Keds.
Inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” Exhibition via Vogue
Aside from the clear homages to Catholic style mentioned above, there are also more surprising ones in the exhibition, like Rick Owens’s infamous genital-baring tunics for men from 2015. Those, according to the catalog, are a riff on the drunken monk stereotype from The Canterbury Tales. The show’s fantastically composed catalog, with imagery by Katerina Jebb, does a lot of legwork for the viewer, decoding the meaning of certain styles of Catholic dress and explaining the importance of hierarchy and pageantry in the church’s public-facing efforts, while also showcasing the elegant simplicity of garments designed for the private lives of the clergy.