A Week in Review: October 26, 2018
A Week in Review is a weekly summary of the best digital stories from around the web. Is there a story worth reading that we missed? Discuss our picks and share your favorite stories from the week in our comments section below.
Suspiria’s Costume Designer on Making Dresses Out of Hair and Redefining ’70s Style As Something Chicly Horrifying via Vogue
“I played with the idea of the woman’s archetypal body parts and used these with a bit of humor in some of the pieces,” she says. “For instance, I referenced drawings by Louise Bourgeois and I created a dozen original prints for some of the garments in which common patterns such as flowers or classic ’70s motifs were formed out of body parts like arms, legs, breasts, and vaginas. These were printed on different fabrics and then cut into blouses, dresses, and scarves and distributed to different characters to wear in the film.”
Tadashi Yanai and Alexander Wang Unveil Collaboration via WWD
“In fashion, things are constantly evolving…at the speed of light, the speed of a click,” Wang said. “If we were to do something together it had to be spectacular, it had to break down boundaries, it had to push the conversation forward.”
Fans of Philo-Era Céline Turn Heartbreak Into Profit via BoF
According to The RealReal, in the weekend directly following Slimane’s September 28 debut, searches for Celine increased 52 percent compared with the average for September to that point. In October, searches remain up 29 percent from the pre-show September average, a spokesperson for The RealReal said. Prices for Celine items are up 7 percent, with certain items, especially Philo-designed clothing, spiking 30 percent.
The Problem with Joan Didion’s ‘Good Taste’ in ‘Play It As It Lays’ via Garage
Fashion is generally taken to be an expression of identity, but in Play It As It Lays, people’s identities literally are the brands and styles they wear. There are the “women with the silk Pucci shirts and the periodically tightened eye lines.” Efficient and polished, and always in their “middle forties,” they holiday and spa frequently and own pairs of investment shoes. They are distinct from the “women with long hand crafted earrings,” willowy types with bohemian tendencies that manifest as a commitment to linen and farmer’s markets (today, they may have a soft spot for Goop). A “silver medallion against a chest” tells us everything we need to know about the guy wearing it: a predisposition to sleaze paired with the confidence of Philip Seymour Hoffman in Boogie Nights.
The Power of Women Designing for Women via iD
There’s a danger when Philophiles talk about this “real woman” that Philo catered towards. That paints women with a single brushstroke, when the reality is far more complex. What we should remember is that what we perceive to be “real” is within our own grasp and permitted by the choices that are presented to us — whether it’s the shortest of mini-skirts, the shiniest of sequins, the most voluminous of tulle dresses, or the most difficult of jutting out silhouettes. While we await Philo’s next move (Chanel is strongly rumored to be on the cards if Karl leaves), it can’t be emphasized enough that female authorship in fashion is vibrant, ever-changing, and through wearing their wares, there’s an opportunity to reflect a reckoning of the gender imbalance that continues to reverberate beyond our wardrobes.